Axolotls et cie, s'occuper des oeufs, élevage
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EGGS - HATCHING - BREEDING

First of all ask yourself the right questions. Will I keep them all (one lay often means 100 to over 400 eggs)? Do I have room for axolotls which when they have grown will reach at least the size of 10 centimeters. Can I afford to feed them all? Do I have time? If I don't have nursery aquariums, I will have to keep them in a tank, change the water every day with water that has stood for at least 24 hours to remove all traces of chlorine. I will have to feed them twice a day. Hatch artemia nauplii, buy bloodworms, etc. Will I easily find adopters? More the colors are "basic" the easier it is to obtain them and therefore the more difficult it is to find adopters.

Nathalie Chassagne

The female can lay eggs in one or two days, it will be necessary to wait until she has finished this laying so as not to disturb her and not to have to repeat the "cleaning" a second time.

1st solution:

You don't want to keep the eggs , so you can collect them all and put them in a small bag in the freezer from the start when they are still spherical and the nervous system is not developed (thus avoiding animal suffering). Leaving the eggs in the belief that the parents will eat the juveniles when they hatch is not effective. They will instead end up in the filtration system ... or starve in the aquarium. Some have had their pumps blocked by eggs, others unfortunately experienced a spike in nitrites because of the eggs.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

2nd solution:

You want to raise juveniles . Yes, but stay reasonable instead of keeping all the laying, already limit the number of eggs you want to keep 20 or 30 maximum.

Choose a rectangular tupperware that is spacious enough, but not too large so that they can feed easily at first (about 25 to 30 cm X 15 cm). Put 3 cm of water in it at the start the following weeks when the kitties have grown up, you can increase the water height.

You must change the water every day in order to prevent the eggs from rotting and to keep an important oxygen level for the developing juveniles in the egg, the oxygen exchange takes place through the protective membrane. You can either take water from your aquarium each day and compensate by adding the same amount (this allows for small changes each day) or you can use pipe water that has stood for at least 24 hours to dechlorinate it. This second solution is not necessarily the most suitable because, in addition to the chlorine, your pipe water may contain heavy metals or chloramine. Some limbs have lost full eggs this way.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Some people use a bubbler to speed up the hatching, of course this is not necessary. If you wait you will see the hatching within 10 to 15 days (usually 15 days) after the laying. on the 4th day we can already see the visible transformation of the egg, it becomes oval and is no longer perfectly spherical. it develops and lengthens over the following days then you will see the gills appear and the juvenile sometimes moving and giving accoups.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Learn to recognize an egg that is damaged or just doesn't grow.

The "moldy" eggs will have to be removed so that they do not mold the neighbors.

reconnaitre des oeufs axolotls abimés
oeuf axolotl abimé ou sain?
evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Eggs from a leucistic, wild or melanistic mother = black, gray or black and white.

Eggs from an albino mother = always white

Nathalie Chassagne

Eggs from an albino mother = always white

Nathalie C

evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls
evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Ariane Gaspard

evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Ariane Gaspard

evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Ariane Gaspard

Ariane Gaspard

evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Ariane Gaspard

evolution jour apres jour oeufs axolotls

Ariane Gaspard

EVOLUTION ...

Nathalie Chassagne


They can be white or dark or even composed of these two colors depending on the color of the female (if it is an albino the eggs will be white. This does not mean that the juvenile contained in this egg will not change. not at all A copper mother will lay beige eggs (impossible to confuse with the dazzling whiteness of white or gold albino eggs).

In the section on genetics you will be able to delve a little more into this subject.

Your little ones have come out of their egg and are finally zigzagging in their tray ??
Very good ! Do not hesitate to isolate them as you go in another clean tank with fresh water to avoid any risk of yeast infection or that they get stuck in the other eggs which will not all hatch. (I use a bubbler pipe to gently take them).

The juvenile who has just been born has, like many other species, a small yolk sac on its belly in which it will "draw" the nutrients it needs for 48 to 72 hours. This allows it in its natural habitat to find a safe place before providing for its needs. So when hatching you can launch your brine shrimp hatcheries (not to be confused with brine shrimp which is the adult stage and much too big for your small juveniles) refer to the section food for more information on how to do this. They are fed once or twice a day. Especially remember to rinse the nafplions well using the sieves provided for this purpose so that no salt remains.
In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Nathalie Chassagne

Nathalie Chassagne

Nathalie Chassagne

Some people who cannot hatch nafplions or who have too many cysts (brine shells) in their sample have successfully turned to other alternatives:
First week
  • Frozen Cyclops rinsed well before distribution to juveniles.
  • Microphones to
In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.
Second week we can add:

You will find information about this food in the food section as well.
Around one month of your juvenile (when the front legs out), you can feed them at bloodworms frozen or alive, and brine shrimp and always well rinsed. Do it gently: over one or two days you continue to also offer them their first food (nauplia, micro worms, daphnia) so as not to lose a large part of your small axolotls, you must give them time to grow. get used to this change.
You need a certain living space for your juveniles, they are particularly voracious being small because it is their instinct for survival. So in order to avoid "crunching" of legs, gills or tails separate them as much as possible and by equivalent sizes.
The second change of diet for your little ones will be the switch from bloodworm to pellets. This can be done from the 5 cm of the juvenile or from the 10 cm but always leaving the first feed at the bottom. Because for some this passage is more difficult, indeed, the axolotls are sometimes choosy. However, do not forget that the bloodworm has little nutritional value unlike the pellets which contain everything necessary (see information on components and suppliers with the possibility of orders on the site). An axolotl that begins to feed on pellets grows much faster.
It is considered that a young axolotl can be adopted from its 10 cm.
In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Nathalie Chassagne

Nathalie Chassagne

Nathalie Chassagne

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