Axolotls et cie, nourriture vivante pour juvéniles

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Salt ratio (dishwasher or table-top) for water for hatching of the brine shrimp eggs:

3 teaspoons for 500 ml of water.

NAUPLIES D'ARTEMIAS BREEDING

We will discuss here the different methods to give birth to nauplia at home, in order to feed your juvenile axolotls. Below you will find two sellers of live food, methods of raising your daphnia and at the bottom of the page your microvers.

Nafplions (1st stage of artemia

Artemias (adult stage)

First of all, get artemia eggs or more precisely cysts.
Their quality is vital for the success of the project. In the juvenile food section you have a seller of top quality cysts Avoid brine shrimp mixes. In other words the mixture of salt and cysts (eggs) their performance is poor compared to the mixtures that you will make yourself.

Dosages:
3 teaspoons of dishwasher salt for one of the cysts (or whatever else we rinse the nauplii before distributing them) personally I have always used this one with very good results; for 0.5 liter of water. The doses being set, let's move on to the different methods:

(Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site if a replacement basket is needed)

Disc hatcher

(Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site)

ideal for beginners because really the easiest for harvesting, it is necessary to have two in order to launch one as soon as the other makes its first nauplia, be careful: the shells of cysts are totally indigestible and quickly kill the loulous . ( Explanatory video section social networks then youtube )

The artemias jbl kit

gives a good quantity of nauplia it requires a bubbler. Many use the tap below to open it on a sieve (perpetual coffee filter or sieve at 4 € in pet stores)

To make your own hatcheries, here are two fairly widespread processes that have been tested for years:

Use a plastic bin that has contained ice, for example, to avoid monopolizing a tupperware
It must be translucent, it must be blackened on its half and its cover (black tape, marker).
You also need a piece of foam (large holes) which will serve as a partition in order to have the cysts (eggs on one side and let the nauplia once hatched go through the foam to the other side (attracted by the source). light that you will have positioned) it must not exceed in height in order to allow the lid to be closed.
Just place a light source on the translucent side and the brine shrimp pass through the moss towards the light. You have to put a black cover on the box, that goes without saying.
It is better to start several of them two days apart so that you have brine shrimp available every day.

The dosage is 30 g per liter of water.

Basket-shaped sieve

click on the image to be directed to a merchant site

Always rinse the collected nauplia in the sieve in order to remove the salt which as you know is harmful to axolotls (and then they are freshwater animals ...)

Many use simple tubs with bubblers and sugar at the end. It is necessary to disconnect the bubbler 1/4 of an hour, half an hour before the harvest so that the cysts separate from the nauplia and attract the latter with a torch or flashlight. And yes, they are drawn to the light. Then one siphons with a pipe for bubbler or a syringe with flexible pipe at the end.

You can keep them a little longer by feeding the nafplions with Mikrozell

ou ici >> oeufs d'artémias

LIVE FOOD PURCHASE

Juvenile food purchase

For those who are interested you can order from Fred:
Shipping costs are included!
Cysts 5 gr: 2 euros

Cysts 10 gr: 3 euros
Cysts 30 gr: 8 euros (enough to raise a laying of 10 juveniles)
Cysts 50 gr: 13 euros

Cysts 100 gr: 27 euros

Cysts 200 gr: 54 euros

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Catappa: 4 euros for 12 sheets (10 paid and 2 free)
The following prices are to be requested from the seller, he will adapt to the quantity:
Marine and freshwater phytoplankton, Marine copepods, paddy rice for infusoria,
Catappa (leaves and seeds), microvers,
Vinegar eels, alder fruits, grindals.

You can contact him via his mailbox telling him that it is from Nathalie anubis38400@hotmail.com so you will have a few extra grams;)

BREEDING DAPHNIES & PURCHASING LIVE FOOD

This article was shared by Olivier. He can also provide you with strains of daphnia (prices and details at the end of the article).

Daphnia:

After some research on the net and translation of the text, here is a method for breeding Daphnia.

Daphnia are also known as "water bugs" or "water fleas" due to their jerky movement. They live in fresh water and are really easy to grow at home. Daphnia can be given regularly to your fish to vary the diet, or seasonally to promote reproduction. They can be used as food for both small and large fish.
Unlike dried or frozen foods that are not eaten, Daphnia do not pollute the water. They stay alive in the aquarium until a fish eats them.
Growing Daphnia at home is economical and will provide you with a constant source of living food without the risk of transmitting disease.
To start your own Daphnia culture, you must purchase a starter culture from your local fish store, aquarium club, online store, or from an individual.
Place the container you plan to use for growing Daphnia under lighting. Artificial light works just as well as sunlight, so you can for example place it under a lamp in your basement. Add water to a container and pour in a strain of Daphnia. Add very weak bubbling, just to pierce the surface and prevent the water from stagnating and depleting oxygen. Maintain the water temperature around 20-24 C °.
Mixing a packet of dry yeast with a cup of soy flour will provide you with a great food source for your Daphnia. Stir 1 / 8-1 / 4 teaspoon of this mixture into a cup of hot water and pour it into your Daphnia container. This creates a cloud in the water.
It is not necessary to feed your Daphnia again until they have filtered and consumed all the yeast flour (ie when the water has turned clear again).
Avoid overfeeding, because if you pollute the water, the daphnia will die.

A filtration system should not be used in the breeding container. Small, regular water changes are the best way to maintain water quality. You can combine water changes with harvest by using a siphon to suck up some of the water and filter through a dip net. The water collected can then be replaced with a new one and the landing net will be filled with Daphnia for your fish. You will also need to remove the deposit from the bottom of the container every two weeks.
Use a sieve to sort the daphnia by size. This way you will have the big Daphnia for the big fish, the small Daphnia for the small fish and the tiny daphnia for the fry.
Here are some foods that you can use to feed your daphnia: green water, yeast, active yeast, soy or wheat flour, infusoria, bacteria, the most used are yeast and green water.
To promote the development of bacteria and microorganisms, you can add (in a sock or stocking), a small handful of horse manure or potting soil (this is not mandatory) in the water.

Here is an interesting link:
http://www.cerclaqua09.cerclaqua.com/eaudouce/articles/daphnies.php

A small video that must be translated for the recipe:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=bVGEZX7BTPM

Example of a recipe for feeding Daphnia:
1 part of spirulina
1 part rice flour
1 part green pea powder

If the breeding of daphnia is planned to be carried out indoors use water from your aquarium.
Place this water in a container on a window sill in bright light. The water will turn green in a few days.
To maintain green water indoors, you just need to put on intense lighting for 12 to 14 hours a day and add a few drops of liquid fertilizer per week (2 or 3 drops no more).

If your Daphnia breeding is intended to be done outdoors, there is no need to wait for the water to turn green.
Outdoor breeding is simple:
- A large container with non-chlorinated water without fish, or better still water from an aquarium (during a water change, for example). You can use a trash can or a plastic drum, a small preformed basin, an old bathtub ...
- A strain of Daphnia and let nature take its course.

Rearing daphnia is easier outdoors than in an aquarium.
The downside is that in winter the stock is almost zero.

Personally, I have the opportunity to be able to breed outdoors, so I have never tried indoors ...
I do not distribute any food.
I let nature take its course and the daphnia thrive very well all summer.

In winter, even if the container freezes, do not empty it. The slime contains 'lasting' eggs which will wait for favorable conditions to hatch and give birth to a new generation.

WARNING
If you want to bring food to your daphnia, you should not put too much of it, so as not to pollute the water and lose everything.

PURCHASE
Available:
- Vinegar eels 3 euros per strain
- Micro-towards 3 euros per strain
- To grindal 3 euros per strain
- Daphnia magna 3 euros per strain
- Tetra Discus pellets 6 euros per 1/2 Liter (150gr), 10 euros per Liter (300gr)
- TetraMin straws 4 euros per 1/2 Liter (100gr), 7 euros per Liter (200gr)
- Artemia cysts (to hatch) 3.50 euros for 10gr
- Orange planorbes 1 euro for 10
- Neocaridina davidi Sakura red shrimps 2 euros each or 15 euros for 10

For all orders and information: olivier.c28630@gmail.com

BREEDING OF MICRO WORMS AND DAPHNIA

For first age juveniles: Micro worms

The breeding is very simple and takes place in jars (jam type) with at the bottom a good cm of a mixture of oats and brewer's yeast (culture medium), the small worms will then migrate on the walls. from the jar where it will be very easy to take them with a damp brush that I rinse in a small pot (of glass yoghurt) filled with water they will fall to the bottom then I take them and distribute them with a pipette.

Here is the recipe for the culture medium I use:
4 volumes of oatmeal
1 volume of brewer's yeast (it can be replaced by a packet of dehydrated Baker's yeast, the medium is 3 times more productive, but lasts 2 times less)
3 volumes of water. https://youtu.be/SrWSdxx8qEo

We can also use for their culture mashed potato flakes, bread, couscous semolina ...

Pour a good cm of the mixture at the bottom of the pot, introduce the strain on the surface, stir lightly, close the pot and drill 3 or 4 small holes to allow them to breathe.
Transplanting takes place after 3 to 4 weeks. Take from the old strain well 3 teaspoons and inoculate the new culture pot.
Then add about once a week the oatmeal or mash, remembering to moisten the medium to allow the development of micro worms. It's time to make another pot when it's almost full

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

For juveniles from one month old, live bloodworms are found in the silt of ponds and ponds and obviously in pet shops and fishing stores. they can be stored either in a newspaper in a cool place at the bottom of the regrigerator, or in aquarium water changed every two days in a pot at the bottom of the refrigerator.

Daphnia Pulex and Magna:

First of all, you have to get a stump, the former are smaller than the latter. Then in green water or the water of one of your aquarium put your daphnia it will then suffice to feed them with Hobby brand infusoria protogen , we can also leave them outdoors only in a container of water, the algae will be enough to feed them., or even mikrozell as if to feed the nafplions.

Bloodworms have no nutritional value, so we use them instead to move our juveniles to a more substantial food after the artemia nauplia and we mix them with the 3 mm pellets in order to get them used to the taste. of the latter which ensure an adequate supply of proteins, minerals, vitamins and lipids.

vers de vase rouge, vers de vase congelé, apport nutritif, composition